New Year, New Tools

 I am always curious about the tools people have on their modeling workbenches, looking for ways of doing things better or with more precision, as well as adding new skills to my repertoire.  Regularly, I discover items of interest so I keep a running list of possible additions and their source. Near the end of the year, I purchased several new tools from my list, illustrated below.  Some were based on experience using less suitable tools, others intended to expand my capabilities.

At the top is a pair of heavy duty flush cut pliers from FastCap. These are primarily intended for clipping trip pins off Kadee couplers as close as possible.  They can also be used for heavier brass wire.  I have been dissatisfied with my other diagonal cutting pliers as they leave a significant nub.  This was an Amazon find, a return at a substantial discount, appearing unused.

The metal blocks on the right with the rows of holes are machinists parallel blocks, or 1-2-3 blocks, with precision machined right angle faces.  These are helpful for providing support and ensuring right angles when attaching boxcar or building sides together.  The blocks can also provide weight for holding parts together while gluing. I found these at Amazon.

Recently, several expert railroad modelers shared about their use of The Glue Looper, an ingenious applicator for thin CA glue.  I had been using wire, toothpicks and an etched brass applicator from Eduard, with mixed results.  The photo shows one of the Glue Looper tips in a green hobby knife handle, along with the packet of tips in three “sizes”, referring to the size of the loop and how much glue it holds.  The tip is selected based on the length of the glue application. I have already used a medium tip and am very happy with the precise application and ease of use. The handle was purchased with the tips as an option, but any hobby-knife holder should work.  I wanted a dedicated handle and the bright green color stands out.

The rectangular metal piece with two black knobs in the center of the photo is a photo etch elbow bender from UMM-USA (Unique Master Models). John Vojtech is a highly skilled master modeler who offers an extensive range of tools, supplies and models on his website. John has also developed some excellent tools that he has custom made, including photo etch benders.  These particular designs are well suited to bending brass for etched ladders and long narrow shapes such as door tracks.  He offers a number of versions, including 60 (MN004) and 150 millimeter (MN014) length models that include a bending brake.  I had the 60mm bender on hand, purchased for etched ladder stile bending, and wanted a longer one specifically for a few upcoming projects where I plan to make door track angles from thin sheet brass.  

Again, these tools come highly recommended by several prolific railroad modelers.  As standard, the benders have Allen head screws for clamping.  Some folks have modified them with M6 star knobs purchased separately for ease of use, not requiring a hex wrench.  The knobs are readily available online at Amazon.

While at the UMM website, I discovered another tool developed by John, a scriber.  There are several versions, designed for scribing panel lines on aircraft models but having utility for other purposes as well.  I purchased the SCR-03 “third generation” universal scriber to use for scraping and scribing in confined areas. It is a thin dual ended chisel type tool made of hard tool steel with one side also having a sharpened edge well suited to scribing on curves. The hook shaped end looks particularly useful.  This tool is shown in the first picture, at the lower left. I was reminded of some of the dental tools that have a similar shape and this tool seemed like it might find good use.  An impulse buy so we shall see how it goes.

Did I absolutely need all of these new things?  Possibly not, but working with well crafted tools that are built for purpose makes modeling more enjoyable for me, and elevates my game. At least, this is what I tell myself!  

Drill Bit Organizer Review

 I have been looking for a drill bit organizer for awhile now.  As I start to build more craftsman type kits, including resin and kitbashes, the need for more, and a wider variety of , drill sizes has made me realize that my current single container for bits is inadequate.  Not only is it too small but it necessitates measuring the bit diameter with calipers when a bit is changed.  This was not a major issue when only using a couple of sizes that could be left in the pin vices, but it is a major inconvenience when drilling a larger variety of hole sizes.  In addition, I had need of more bits to replace broken ones.

Small Bit Storage Container & Pin Vices

There are a few bit organizers that have been commonly available for the very small bit sizes we typically use for modeling.  One is a circular holder or stand with a base having a marked hole for one of each size from 61 to 80.  Some versions have a clear plastic dome cover.  A drawback of this design is that it holds only one of each size, so another method is needed in addition to store multiples of a size.  Some have reported issues with snagging and spilling bits when trying to pick up just one, or working near it.

Another popular storage organizer is a flat plastic case with a clear sliding lid, having individual slots for each size from #61 to 80.  Again, it is intended for one of each size, although the flat design is compact and easily stored in a drawer.  Unfortunately, it appears this may no longer be available, at least from the sources such as Micro-Mark that I have checked.

A third organizer is a metal case with a lid and flip up holder for the bits, a miniature version of a design that has been in use many years for larger drill bits one might have in their tools at home or work.  These seemed clunky and not very practical to me.

Some organize their small bits in small individual envelopes or resealable plastic bags, even plastic pill bottles.  

I was searching for a solution that would store multiples of each bit size, be easily accessed, and sturdy.  While looking for some good quality drill bits at Otto Frei, a jewelry supply company, I came across a 3D printed drill bit organizer and dispenser made by Nashef Designs. The design was intriguing and looked like it met my needs.  Even better, Otto Frei had a bundle that included the organizer, either 5 or 10 of each bit size, and a bonus tube of cutting lubricant.  I decided to purchase the "Basic Kit" with 5 of each size from #51 to 80 (150 bits total).  The cutting lubricant has already been put to use in tapping holes.

BORE (tm) Drill Bit Organizer

The organizer is very cleverly designed, with 32 compartments that are labeled with the bit size.  The top rotates with a distinct click between each compartment, allowing easy access to one size.  Clear windows on the side provide a visual check of the compartments.  This organizer holds a wider range of bits than most, from #51 to #80, with an extra compartment, and a closed position.  

The resin material it is printed from seems durable, almost like a nylon.  Typical for 3D printed items, there are striations or small ridges on the material that are artifacts of the printing process, although the markings for each bit size are very clean edged and easily read.  The overall size may be a bit large for some at roughly 4 inches in diameter and a similar height, but I appreciate the design and storage capacity, along with the clearly indicated bit sizes. It has found a home on top of a storage bin on my workbench.  The tube of lubricant fits in the center hole, keeping it handy.

One observation so far is that it can be a bit tricky to get the smallest bits out of the organizer.  Because it is designed for #51 size and down, the compartments are tall and the small bits, #74-80 in particular, will sometimes catch on the striations inside the compartments or get lodged at an angle.  I have found that a long pair of tweezers can be a help to grabbing one of the tiny bits and pulling it out.  It may be that using a small wood stick or wire with a little piece of tape or a dab of a tacky glue might serve well also.

 The organizer itself is available directly from Nashef Designs, but I recommend checking out the kit options at Otto Frei, as the price including the bits and lubricants is a good deal.  I am not sure how often I will use the larger bits in this set, but even so, the pricing is good on a per bit basis.

Otto Frei has been recommended by several people in various online groups as a source of quality tools such as tweezers, pliers and cutting tools, as well as good quality high speed steel (HSS) drill bits.

The Right Tools

 It is sometimes amazing what a difference the right tool can make.  While growing up, I learned a lot about hand tools for basic carpentry, plumbing and yard work from my dad and grandfather.  Using the "right tool for the job" was a mantra that many of you have likely heard and a lesson I absorbed early.  

When I was getting into model aircraft building as a teen, I started out with just a few basic tools, including an Xacto knife, paint brushes, household tweezers and toothpicks.  Soon, my developing skills were bumping up against the limits of my tools.  My grandmother lifted my modeling to the next level by introducing me to Brookstone, which at that time was a mail order catalog house that offered garden and hobby tools.  She would periodically ask me to pick out a tool from their catalog and would order if for me.

The tweezers and clamps from Brookstone in this photo are on my workbench to this day, more than 40 years later, and still help me regularly.

I have continued to add useful tools to my kit, with recent additions of specialized precision pliers and chisel sets.  I will cover the pliers in more detail in a later post about bending wire for details.  The modelers chisels have made a step change in my modeling, both from a level of detail and confidence perspective.  Here's the first modelers chisel that I acquired a number of years ago.

Micro-Mark Modelers Chisel #80893

This chisel, sold by Micro-Mark, has a very sharp hardened blade that is 4mm wide, with rounded edges.  I have found this much superior to an Xacto No.17 blade for removing cast on details, or smoothing out ejection marks.  The tool has a substantial weight and a ridged gripping surface, both of which provide good control.  It works well to remove cast on grab irons and other details from flat surfaces with less tendency to dig in or skip versus the No. 17 blade.  In some cases, however, this chisel is too big and it is not ideal on curved surfaces.

A recent post on Ted Culotta's Prototype Railroad Topics blog introduced me to another option for chisel blades.  I had been looking for narrower chisels with a shorter handle to use in tight spaces, and had considered a variety of options from several manufacturers that other railroad modelers had recommended.  Once I saw Ted's review of the GodHand chiseling tips, I decided that they looked like just what I was searching for, so I ordered the round and flat blade sets shown here (Ted also reviews some other modeling chisels that he uses in the link above) .

GodHand Flat Blade (green) and Round Blade (red) chisel tip sets

GodHand Power Pin Vice below

Both sets include five tips with widths from 1mm to 3mm.  The flat blade set is item code GODGH-BBH-1-3, the round blade set is item code GODGH-BBM-1-3.  Each set come in a sturdy plastic case that holds the bits firmly.  Be aware, these are very sharp!  The base of these tips is 3mm in diameter, and is designed to fit into a pin vice or similar holder.  Be sure your pin vice collet can accommodate the 3mm diameter.

I also purchased a GodHand power pin vice, item code GODGH-PB-98ST to hold the chisel tips.  I was concerned about my other pin vices being large enough for these tips, plus I really wanted a more substantial high quality  pin vice, and this one certainly meets those requirements.  It has a soft rubber grip, a good weight, and a spinning top.  The pin vice is well made, with a very nice blackened knurled steel cap and a precision steel collet.  The collet will tightly grip tips or drill bits from 1 to 3.2mm diameter. I like the short length of this tool for precise control and the ability to work in tight places on my models.  Other versions are also available.

These are available from HobbyLink Japan as well as other sources, including Amazon.  GodHand makes a variety of modeling tools, with many different chisel tip sets.  I found the ordering process and service from HobbyLink Japan to be very good, with reasonable and fast shipping as well.

I have been using these chisel tips with great results working on both flat and curved surfaces, such as in between the corrugations on box car ends to remove material with good control.  This photo shows use of a rounded tip on the end of a Tyco gondola where I have removed the cast on brake housing.

The rounded tip is ideal for working in this area, following the curves in the plastic.  Combined with the sharp working surface, it provides excellent control.  In a later post I will describe my kitbash of this "toy train" gondola into an accurate representation of a Texas & Pacific steel gondola, greatly helped by this superb tool.

I'm grateful for the skills my father and grandfather taught me, and for the appreciation of fine tools they, and my grandmother, fostered as I was growing up.  Having good tools that are "right for the job" increases my enjoyment of the hobby, and allows me to accomplish a higher level of modeling.

The Current State

 A popular phrase used in business these days is "current state," which refers to where the organization, or a particular process or practice in that organization, is now: the situation as it currently stands.  Defining the current state is usually step one in considering where the organization wants to get to.

In the case of my modeling and my model railroad, this is my current state:

Workbench (click image to enlarge)

My work area is well set up for my purposes, consisting of an old stamped steel topped wooden table with self-healing cutting mat and cardboard on top, a swivel arm lamp, soft jaw swivel vice, foam cradle and sheets for model work without damaging paint or details, and flat tile pieces for cutting and glue puddling surfaces.

The small drawers hold small detail parts like grab irons, ladders, rivets/nbw, brake wheels, couplers and screws, while the larger plastic drawers primarily hold tools, small clamps and jigs.  The ceramic mugs are convenient holders for frequently used tools.  Adhesives and the like are readily at hand.

Yes, I am a tool guy.  Jack Burgess has written extensively in Model Railroad Hobbyist and elsewhere of his appreciation for good tools and a plentiful variety of them, and I am an eager disciple of that philosophy.  The two blue handled Xuron specialty pliers sitting on the bench are recent purchases.  Future posts will indulge my interest in useful specialty tools of high quality, while rationalizing that tendency by demonstrating how it has improved my modeling.

Two in-progress models are on the bench; a Proto 2000 tank car nearing completion in a foam cradle, and an Intermountain Milwaukee (MILW) 40 foot box car.  I tend to work in bursts, completing a step or two on a model, then working on another while glue dries or creative energies are replenished.  

Not shown are additional detail parts stored in small plastic totes under the workbench, and a variety of styrene and wire in the desk drawer, along with measuring and drafting tools that come in handy.

Current Layout "Status"

The layout, on the other hand, is not as "developed" as the modeling workbench, as shown above.  The sheet of 2" blue foam was purchased some time ago, but has languished on the opposite side of the room from my workbench with no progress to speak of.  This will be the surface of the shelf layout, to be supported by future benchwork, possibly Ikea shelving.  Various other "supplies" and rolling stock (kits and RTR) are stored in boxes.  The plastic wrapped dark green material is fibrous furnace filter mats for evergreen trees, while another box holds scenic materials such as ground foam and some readymade trees and brush.

The goal is to work on the first shelf module during the rest of this year, even if it becomes a "practice" layout that gets reworked later.  I've procrastinated this step long enough.

I'm itching to put those completed models and sound equipped DCC locomotives on a track so I can advance the throttle and move a train, even if just a few feet.