Continuing with a detailed step-by-step description of this resin boxcar build. The trucks and decals I ordered for this project arrived, as well as some 1/4 ounce wheel weights. The photo below shows these and some other details that I intend to substitute for, or add to, kit furnished items.
From left to right, a Tichy AB brake set will be used for the underbody brake detail, 1/4 ounce stick on wheel weights as needed on top of the floor, will likely use a Detail Associates Equipco brake housing (#12 on sprue), Branchline 7 rung ladders are a close match for the prototype after being cut down to 6 rungs, and a Kadee Equipco brakewheel is in the upper middle. The Bowser 2D-F15 coil elliptic trucks with steel wheels per my research, Yarmouth #220 etched brass sill steps for GSC tank cars will be modified for the corner sill steps, and Microscale set 87-1201 for the lettering with Shadow Keystone heralds round out most of the major enhancements. I realized after the fact that I did not include the airhoses and brackets from Hi-Tech Details or the coupler lift bars (Tangent) in my photo.
I have not yet decided whether I will use the resin “wood” running board from the kit, or substitute a Yarmouth laser cut wooden running board set. In addition there are a few other items such as bracket grabs (Kadee or Red Caboose) and wire that will be used. More description on these as I progress.
In my last post, I had test fit the floor into the one piece resin body after some careful sanding on the edges of the floor casting. The fit is very snug and I was concerned about pressing the floor all the way on. It was suggested that I drill and tap the bolsters for the trucks so that the screws could be used to help remove the floor.
The first step in doing so was to measure and locate the centers for drilling the bolsters using a small metal rule to check from side to side, verifying that there was equal material on both sides of the centerline, then marking the middle with a pencil. The bolsters should be 5 scale feet from the end of the car, hopefully in the middle of the kit bolster. After using a sharp probe to make a dimple, a #50 drill was used to drill through the bolster and floor, cleaning out the resin spirals as I went. This was followed by tapping for a 2-56 screw. The resin is soft enough that no lubricant was needed.
This photo also shows the Kadee #78 couplers and near scale draft gear boxes that will be used, although I will wait to mount these until after everything is set with the floor fit . The mounting lug at the back of the box will be removed and I will also check the coupler box overhang at the end of the car to reach six scale inches. After tapping the bolsters, I temporarily installed 3/16” long 2-56 screws so that I could continue with my floor fit check.
Putting the floor back in, I discovered that it is still just slightly long and will need more careful sanding to reduce the length, as you can see on the left side in this photo. The floor width seems just right. I also noted that the floor fits just too deep into the body on the right. On the left side additional checking shows that it is about right when the floor is fully engaged on that end. I may shim the right end to bring the floor closer to flush with the sides and end of the body.
That’s my progress for now, and with Christmas upon us, will take this back up at the end of the week for my next installment.
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